Hours of work little to show

Growing heater hose, need some correct fittings but close

Placed an aluminium bracket above the vacuum pump to put some electrical fittings on, you can see a large heat sink on the left this is where the 100 volt DC 40 amp solid state relay will sit for the water heater, those little buggers can get pretty hot, next to that is a step up box from 12 volts DC to 24 volts DC 3 amps also there is a relay mounted on the heat sink for the vacuum pump. The vacuum pump  is a 24 volt unit was cheaper than 12 volt and next to that a fuse box.

Lights back in to make sure every thing is going to fit

Say Cheese, oh yes the windscreen wipers  are up, I switched them on before when they were down and sent papers, battery charger and fuses to the floor

down and sent papers, battery charger and fuses to the floor

Showing micro switch on Pot Box, this is a closed cct. so when the throttle is closed this activates the relay to turn on the Vacuum Pump, when you press on the accelerator to go the switch goes open cct. and switches off the vacuum pump. So every time you lift your foot off the accelerator to brake it activates the vacuum pump for the brakes. I think I managed to say that in a round about way.

The Relay and fuse box, the fuse box wired up to ignition cct. so only active when car is switched on

The water heater and heater hoses all fitted

Hopefully more next week

Heat, Vacuum and Drive

Now I did mention last blog I would have the wheels turning however I had anticipated my new drive shaft and CV joints to arrive, well they didn't but now I have little excuse. I managed to grab one day this Easter long weekend so here’s the update.

Here it is!

Next get the battery back in place, this will run all of the ancillary things like lights horn and so forth I had hoped to use a flexible solar panel on the roof of the car to keep it charged however a DC to DC charger is about half the cost 

  Just a little look at how I crimp the 50 mm square cable to the lugs, a few tons of hydraulic pressure

 In, squeeze and presto

 

Now all of the HT cables are connected to the controller and motor, just those pesky little important wires that do everything else to work out 

The electric vacuum pump for the brakes this will also need a vacuum tank to store enough vacuum for continual braking (on-off)

Are yes the hot water device, thanks for plumbing supplies for all those brackets and fittings in such handy sizes.

Coming along

there we are now supported

Gives you a good look at the support bracket, Denis that's the bracket off the battery tray support

More plumbing supplies this time 75 mm down pipe and end caps with a couple of air pressure fittings

Mounted next to one and other there is a one way valve in the centre of the connecting pipe

Just a look from the side

Required a cross brace for the heater for extra stability 

And my VW electric water pump for the heater mounted on the fire wall next to the heat exchange inlets 

almost done with the control wiring 

Lots of work but few pictures.

It’s been time to pull the motor and gear box out of the car and pull it to pieces, paint the parts, “Locktight” the bolts and run the motor. All this is a reversal of already documented stuff so I haven’t posted this work, now it’s going back together and hopefully I will have the drive shafts fitted and wheels turning by Sunday night. I’ll update this post over the weekend. Cheers

Starting some of the "HT" wiring, a lot easier with motor out of the car 

Running the motor checking all is nice and smooth coupled together with gear box

Oh yes there is that orange bath plug

The BRB Big Red Button

Well it's time for the compulsory Big Red Button and as the Matiz has one small cup holder in the centre console seems like a good place to go. This is of course for isolating the main battery pack from the drive train components here I started with drilling a 32mm hole in the bottom of the cup holder

Looks like this

Well I put the whole thing together and placed back in the car to find the contractor mechanism fouled on the gear selector cables so I needed to gain about 10mm so I cut away a further section of the holder. Next I found the diameter of the cup holder to be 75mm just the same size as an end block for a 75mm storm water pipe

So centre and bore a 26mm hole in the end cap and mount the BRB

Looks like this on the side

Back in the console view from under side

Used fibre glass resin to glue end cap in place 

Stuck tight 

And back together 

No no nope not going to talk about this!!!